Phantom Phoodie: Renegade Canteen

Not only are the forks roaring at Robert McGrath's new "Renegade Canteen", the rest of the silverware is giving off sparks.

The Phoodie party arrived at 6 p.m. on a Friday evening in August, not the best time these days for a restaurant to pay its bills, yet Renegade was packed with excited, enthusiastic diners. Much of that energy is a result of the long and splendid career of the head renegade, Robert McGrath. He has had a stellar reputation in a number of locations simply, imaginatively celebrating food! Renegade Canteen is his newest, and it eventually may become his best. It's located at 9343 E. Shea Blvd., far enough from Fountain Hills and downtown Scottsdale that it stands alone. That it does - in an attractive strip center - it has a front door and a back door and it needs both to accommodate all the hungry people. And that hunger is satisfied in so many ways.

We decided to order fondue as a starter for our table of four…FONDUE?...all that bread and heavy cheese? NO - NO - NO! This is McGrath - Renegade Fondue - a base of cauliflower with grape nuts, butternut squash and, for dipping, an array of carrots, asparagus and apple slices. What? You call that fondue? I will from now on. Interesting and original cocktails, a complete wine list with some surprises and then the entrees.

Some in our party ordered the Green Chile Pork Stew with Tortillas, The Berkshire Pork Porterhouse and the braised Pot Roast. I chose among three flatbreads, Grilled shrimp and grilled green chilies - without a question, the best flat-bread dish I've ever had.

Menu prices $10 -$22 for our main dish choices…And yes, McGrath's "Big Ass Burger" is here…just ask for "Bob's Big Burger" and everything is as it was. I may be ordering that next time, which will be sooner rather than later. The conflict will be if, the next time I star in the classic western "Return to the Renegade", they are offering what they wouldn't let me have this time around. The reason: they had so many requests for their Madagascar Prawns, they ran out.

Listen, these crustaceans are so huge you don't dare call them shrimp. They're shellfish on steroids…the inspiration behind the Sci-Fi thriller "The Prawn That Ate the Patron". ..And finally dessert, there's a nice variety of cakes and puddings and pies, but for me there's something really soothing and post power-meal satisfying about being able to order either a draft root beer float or a chocolate milk shake. OK, just call me a Renegade…or just call 480-614-9400, Renegade Canteen 9343 E. Shea Blvd. Scottsdale.

Check out Renegade Canteen's Website here.